London Fashion Week: Day 1-3

Highlights So Far:

Paul Costelloe

Paul Costelloe kicked off London Fashion Week with “a fusion of ethereal prettiness with biker girl chic” – anotherwords, a cute and futuristic summer vibe in the form of of flirty, waisted dresses with high hems and full volume skirts matched with cropped biker jackets and brocade gilets with oversized bows. The distinctly pastel palette including peppermint, candy floss pink and cream was fused with gunmetal grey and pearlescent metallic.

Felder Felder

Felder Felder (who also showed alongside Hannah Marshall for a fashion duel on Friday) retained their rock chick style, but with a slightly softer edge from their last gothic inspired collection. This time there was a distinct playful ’80s disco vibe, with mini-length feather skirts and tulle tutus in a vibrant colour palette mixing a muted cobalt blue with a fuschia explosion. And for the full on rock goddess, collarless leather jackets and crystal embellished frocks made you just want to shake your hair out, crank up the volume and rock out to “Born to be Wild”, which also happened to be playing at the time courtesy of Coco Sumner, who just so happened to be on the frow. Funny that.

Sass and Bide

The Sass & Bide S/S 2011 collection, entitled “Papa Sucre” was a mixture of digital print silk jumpsuits in an earthy palette of copper and creams right through to their signature monochromic; metallic dresses in silver and ice-blue with heavily embellished shoulders and oversized ruffled collars made from raffia which also re-appeared in the form of sleeves, wraps and jackets (obviously the design team’s material du jour) .


PPQ is down with the kids, no really. Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker are the design force behind the label that catapulted the drainpipe ‘skinny’ jean back into fashion. They count Pete Doherty, Amy Winehouse, Sienna Miller, Daisy Lowe, Alexa Chung and Peaches Geldof among their fans. In fact Peaches loves the label so much she designed a capsule collection for them back in 2008.

Their S/S 2011 collection (which attracted Amber Rose and Paloma Faith to the frow) titled “Hassan” seemed to be inspired by Marrakesh and ever so slightly the ’80s; with silky trousers and structured cocktail dresses in vibrant jewel-like colours accessorised by big belts and at some points, fez hats!

Blue and white pyjama stripe dresses and pirate shorts also made their way on to the catwalk as did bodycon printed dresses (with matching bowling bags) and the LBD with a multi coloured frill hem and sash. Fun… and expect to see the unique and colourful Paloma in most of the collection soon.

Sustainable Fashion Show

Eco-chic; remember that phrase, because you’re going to be hearing it a lot more (especially because it has the Royal thumbs up).

The first-ever Sustainable Fashion Show at LFW took place at Prince Charles’s London home, Clarence House, showcasing key looks from established and emerging designers, working…..well… sustainably.

The partnership reinforces the BFC’s commitment to sustainable fashion through its Estethica initiative, with many designers including Stella McCartney and fashion eco-warrior, Vivienne Westwood taking part. And proving fashion can have a serious message and still be fun; Westwood artfully inserted a T-shirt into her sustainable catwalk moment, labeled “Prince Charming”. Nothing to do with Adam, but all about Charles.

Twenty8 Twelve

I tried not to be distracted by the sight of Sienna’s beau, Jude Law on the frow (in a rather fetching McQueen Mens hat), but it was hard I tell you. Especially when he was sitting next to fashion’s Mr Colourful (and Sienna’s bestie), Matthew Williamson.

But I did manage to spot the usual eclectic mix from Miller, which for her S/S 2011 show was totally boho-chic holiday. Bib-cut denim tops, floral playsuits, a cute denim prom dress with frill hem, mink suede shorts (yes she’s been wearing them a lot this summer) and pretty pink trim petticoats all brought cute to the catwalk and were inspired by 50s Mexico apparently. (Thank heavens she left the ponchos out though)

Topshop Unique

Topshop Uniques S/S 2011 collection was inspired by “the world of magic and wonder”, and featured a full on ’70s glam rock vibe, with flares, hankerchief hems, big bold prints and embellishment; which included a pantsuit that seemed to sprout an angel wings detail capelet. The perspex platforms topped off by full on frizz hair made this collection flirty and full of ‘Girls Just Wanna Have Fun”.

John Rocha

Texture and form were the two buzz words for John Rocha’s S/S 2011 collection.

In a palette of nude, ivory and noir, hand-crocheted dresses and skirts were mixed with pouf skirts and light summer tweed jackets. Tulle and lace provided the wow factor for dresses (Rocha’s signature pieces ) and in a twist of the traditional meets new gen, cocoon shaped backpacks appeared on the catwalks over strapless cocktail frocks. Interesting? Yes.

Bold statement wedges replaced a slightly feminine edge and I wonder what master craftsman (aka, the king of the high heel ) Jimmy Choo thought about that? Why you ask? Well because he just so happened to be on the frow.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Vivienne Westwood’s signature tailoring is just built to show off the female form. But for the S/S 2011 show, the designer threw in a few curveballs in the form of cut-out shorts and high-volume shoulders with extra fabric in her impeccable tailoring line.

The Red Label show, (with a huge heart and aortas emblazoned across the backdrop on the catwalk ) featured models with full on blue war-painted faces, fluid dresses in muted colours, sexy draped necklines, ripped leggings paired with bondage-boots, hotpants matched with structured jackets, floral print smocks with straw hats and ruffles, tassel tail trims on leopard print skirts and evening frocks with heavily exaggerated cleavages.

Westwood had two messages for fashion; one in the form of the free SIGG water bottles on every seat, urging the world (well, London to start with) to “think beyond fashion and to the most urgent issue facing our world today, climate change.”

The second was to “Choose well and buy less. Don’t buy anything new for six months and recycle your clothes.”

Hmm, try telling Pamela Anderson that. A guest on the frow (having modelled for Westwood’s Gold Label and Anglomania collections), she said after the show:

“Everything she does is gorgeous, she knows how to dress a woman, that’s for sure. I’d rather wear nothing, or Vivienne.”

And finally….my London Fashion Week Celeb Spots so far are:

Jodie Harsh – PPQ / Michelle Williams and Amber Rose (Kanye’s laydee) on the frow at PPQ / VW Brown – PPQ / Reggie Yates – PPQ / Brigitte Nielsen – PPQ / Paloma Faith and Shingai from The Noisettes – Ashley Isham & PPQ / Coco Sumner – Felder Felder / Katherine Hamnett –  (she pioneered politically fashionable slogan tees in the ’80s) outside the sustainable Fashion Show / Daisy Lowe - Catwalk for Vivienne Westwood / Janice Dickinson, Sarah Harding, Nicole Roberts, Matt Smith (Dr Who), Amelle BerrabahJLS, Pamela Anderson, Tracey Emin – Vivienne Westwood Red Label) / Jude Law, Jacquette Wheeler, Matthew Williamson – Twenty8 Twelve Show.

Kate Lawson – Fashion Editor, Showbiz-i

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